Was this yet another, in-again out-again monsoon-like, thunderstorm? No, not this time. Although a good bashing-of-clouds and heavenly-anvil-strikes always makes my day.
The sound was not thunder but drums. This was yet another day of colorful costumes. Yet another celebratory occasion…..yet different. This time it was much bigger than previous occasions. It was grander. It was, for the most part, palpably somber. This was Calcio Storico. Fiorentino Soccer deliberately at the most violent level. A grudge match historically rooted. A medieval dispute fought every June by the different districts.
Piazza della Santa Croce has been transformed into a battle arena.
Massive metal bleachers had been constructed over the last three weeks. They cover the entire piazza. All but a walkway, in front of the shops and the cathedral steps, has been consumed in the project. Even the huge statue of Dante Alighieri, proudly standing at the top of the Santa Croce steps, could not see into the arena. Perhaps it is good that he doesn’t. What would he make of this yearly repetition of ancient resentment?
After the framework was complete, truck after truck labored in with a load of sand. The ancient stones of the piazza now lay hidden under more than a foot of brown sand. It will cushion the collisions of flesh but not lessen the sense of battle.
The drumbeats began off the Piazza della Signoria in the direction of the Piazza della Republica. By the time I pulled on some clothes, the procession was fully across the square. I knew immediately where they were going so I abandoned the tourist congested Signoria and made my way to a spot closer to the Santa Croce. It is a good thing I now know the streets, as many were cordoned off by the Carabinieri (military-type police). I found a spot and waited for the colorful sixteenth century parade (Costumi del XVI Secolo).
After the drums, the flag bearers, the costumed dignitaries and the maidens came the all-important stern-faced bearer of the soccer balls. Next were the crossbow bearers, the spear-carriers, the cannon guard, the ceremonial bull and the lawgivers with the nail-emblazoned Codex Florentinus. Following in measured steps were the swords-men, the groomsmen-led horsemen and then the color guards for the approaching players.
Then nearly the entire cadre of color was repeated with each of the different districts and then their players. Italian pride lined the streets cheering recognition to each group.
Nearly everyone strode through the cobblestone streets with rhythmic steps. Each seemed motivated by a sense of great pride. All, for the most part, seemed consumed by an air of dignity. Many, especially the soccer combatants, seemed somber. Many walked with their heads bowed as if in prayer or pre-play concentration. Many already sported their black mouth guards while others had their blue mouth guards perched on their ears.
As if any more color was really necessary, the street was festooned with triangular banners strung overhead and colorful balloons were clustered everywhere. The crowd was also visibly and profoundly proud of those who were part of Calcio Storico. Many yelled or cheered at those they knew in the procession. Most were Italians. And there is no limit to the fervor of an Italian soccer fan. They make American football fans seem blasé. The flow of enthusiasm moved towards the already congested Santa Croce. Even blocks away, I could hear the roar of the spectators. There was a rhythmic cascading of cheers as each part of the procession entered the piazza.
Your pictures for tonight are evident. The competitions run for three days over two weekends. I am not a soccer fan, nor am I comfortable in a mosh environment, so I didn’t inquire about tickets. The parade was enough excitement for me. Besides my friend Ross from Montevarchi came to town with some wine (he gets from hosting wine tours). We ate and consumed wine until 11:00 PM then went out. My head tends to remind me that the “going out” entailed two bars and two clubs until 4:00 AM. The cheers at a stadium today would be cruel and unusual punishment.
