The walk was brisk this morning on my way to the Mercato Centrale (Central Market) I had lots to do and I didn’t want to be tempted by all the sweet shops. They conveniently vent their AC exhaust at nose level on the narrow sidewalk. The scents engulf you, tempt you and ultimately pull you inside. There is this one that I intend to give in to, to succumb to the beautifully executed petit fours. They look wonderful. But… staple items this morning. I shop more than a dowager from Fez.
Unbelievably, the lines at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo were short so I took an hour side-trip and played tourist. It is a magnificent structure…except for the front, which looks stripped of glory, as plain and drab as an old set of forgotten lawn furniture. But the inside and the rest of the exterior structure are great. The architecture was designed by Brunelleschi. The whole structure, not just the dome as with the Duomo. The inside is much more detailed than the Duomo and Donatello did much of the bronze work (especially the doors to the back chapel). This was apparently the major church of the Medici (as per the audio I rented). There is one eight-year old Medici in a glass and bronze coffin. Very impressive. A bit macabre. You can see the skeleton. His little head with the crown of jewels held on by scraps of scalp on the skull. There is also a Medici sarcophagus that was touted as the finest example of Renaissance craftsmanship in Florence. It was marble engulfed in bronze and suspended in a fretwork of bronze woven ropes. The Donatello doors to the back chapel are apparently second only in craftsmanship to the Ghiberti doors of the Duomo Baptistery. The altar is a wonder of inlaid marble and colored stone. There are three domes all with frescos that rival the Duomo. I was impressed.
Now on to the market. I get most at this vast market but I wait for the trip home for the bread. Just a little further near the stazione there is a little shop that has great bread. Especially the whole wheat and, of course, there are these sweet bun-like cookies with roasted and glazed almonds inside and covering the top. The bun/cookie is very firm and made with something that turns it this deep golden yellow color. The flavor! Then on to the store for envelopes while eating one.
I needed to get back to make arrangements to meet the stepson of a friend of an acquaintance of mine from the gym in Los Angeles (convoluted introduction). However, when I got home Riccardo immediately calls and asks to meet him outside of his workplace and he will take me to see his gym (the one that I want to join for my stay). Unfortunately, he gave me only enough time to change and run out to catch the #23 bus to Frienze Nouve (20 minutes from the Duomo). He didn’t give me enough time to consult with Transparent Language Lesson 15 entitled “Bus Directions” to assure my getting there. Fortunately, I figured out that one must buy the bigleito (ticket) from a tobacconist-store beforehand. I fervently watched every sign and street plaque. Finally, Frienze Nouve and Panciatchi.
Riccardo introduced me to his trainer and the manager of the club. I will get one trainer-session free and two visits (without a trainer), also for free. They have all the amenities including a pool. I start at 6:00 PM on Monday.
After the bus dropped me back at the Duomo, I noticed only two people in line to walk up to the top. I bought a bigleito (6 Euros) and proceeded to take the 463 steps to the top. The stairway is often at a 60-degree angle and frequently only a couple of inches wider than my shoulders. And this is for two-way traffic. In such stuffy, claustrophobic quarters one has to be careful whom one walks behind. Hot sweaty and perhaps not bathed in a day or two. The view at the top is panorama at it best. I didn’t have my camera (only the phone camera) so I will go back. My legs actually hurt more coming down.
I came back and went to the MAGI store for water and bananas (bananas never make it on the trip back from the Centrale…they end up mashed). And I got the largest loquats I have ever seen. Perhaps the size of a very large apricot.
I’m tired, so on to the pictures of the day: Cathedral of San Lorenzo, inside the Mercato Centrale, (the remainder also in the market) two ladies making inspection, a cheese shop and a flower shop.
I'm exhausted! Goodnight.
